The Spring edition contains the usual suspects – Marie Saint Pierre, Denis Gagnon, Christian Chenail, etc – and a handful of newcomers to the show: Claude Bouchard, Dimitri Chris, Micalla,  and Annie 50.

The highly successful Le Showroom, a sort of trunk show, will be showcasing other local designers’ collections since many are not choosing to run on the catwalk. Curiously, the CIMM is MIA in this edition, where usually the more commercial designers like Simon Chang would showcase the more wearable collections to the public. I would’ve thought they had finally made some sort of business connection with MFW, but I guess that has dissolved?

One has to wonder though how the recession has affected local Canadian fashion industries. More and more companies are outsourcing their workload to Asia, with a very select few companies who still produce in Canada (to my knowledge Tristan and Le Chateau are still hanging in there). The sole and only press conference that could possibly address this issue will be on Tuesday, Oct 15th, the inaugural opening day of Montreal Fashion Week SS10, but I’m afraid it’s nothing more talking fluff to reassure designers.

I do certainly believe that a fashion conference in Montreal is severely lacking in addressing these important business issues. And perhaps it would be to the local designers’ benefit if the industry would stop trying to brush it off by replacing it with more talks about pushing creativity, which frankly is not necessary. Think of all the past talents that have appeared and disappeared under the radar: Yso, Renata Morales, Rush Couture, Nadya Toto, Marisa Minicucci, Philippe Dubuc, and for a time Denis Gagnon. Top tier talents like Dubuc and Minicucci are struggling to keep afloat, or in Minicucci’s case, have to rethink their business strategy altogether. Montreal also has to contend with Toronto, which often has some of our best talents migrating to show such as Rudsak, Andy, Aqua di Lara, Travis Taddeo, and Morales, and our cream of the crops are showcasing in Paris or New York, like Rad Hourani and Mackage. It seems that Montreal is too small for designers who are aiming higher.

If Montreal is supposed to be so axed on promoting local talent and encouraging to buy local, they will certainly need to rethink their strategies to influence shoppers. Because the fast fashion giants down on Ste-Catherine are eating up the local industry’s sales with cheap “chic” like Forever 21, H&M, and Zara. While the talents of the likes of CIMM is totally capable of wowing us with commercial and sometimes innovative garments, yet they are nowhere to be found this season.

Like I’ve said before, Montreal has great potential as a fashion hub, but lacks the direction and support it needs to establish itself as true player among fashion capitals.

Image credits: Jimmy Hamelin, Montreal Fashion Week

As I perused the photo galleries on Canoe.ca of the latest collections from our Montreal designers, I felt the collections were for the most part under par of what I was expecting. For example, for his Fall 2008 collection, I thought Christian Chenail really outdone himself with the Blade Runner look, the shiny blacks and gunmetal grays and deep purples. But this year, his focus was more on fur with different textures, however there was no consistency in maintaining a certain look, at least I found.

Usually I really love Helmer‘s fantastical creations, but I found this season to be too out there, and I don’t know if I particularly fond of the giant fruits and plastic bags with vegetables…I’m guessing he was trying to send out a message that his collection was perhaps an eco-friendly one. I was also a bit disappointed with his patchwork this time around, didn’t quite wow me enough.

The consistent winner of MFW are the collections by the CIMM (Centre International de Mode de Montreal), which is based at the 555 Chabanel in the garment district. The team of designers include Samuel Dong, Simon Chang, Zenobia Bawa and Frank Lyman, and together they produce what insiders say “commercial fashion.” Ordinarily, one would imagine commercial fashion would perhaps hold no appeal to potential buyers looking for unique, well-crafted pieces. But to be honest with you, CIMM’s commercial fashion was perhaps the most solid and soundest of all at MFW. From a business stand point, this is exactly what will sell in stores. Tailored jackets, trench coats with enough detail to make it unique but without make it look absurd, puffed 3/4 sleeve blouses, scarlet wool A-line coats, and the list goes on. It’s the kind of understated local talent that one rarely sees in Montreal stores. The 555 Chabanel address is rarely open to the public and only comes into the limelight during MFW. It’s a shame that such a well-kept secret purposefully shelters itself from Montreal shoppers. I think shoppers could use a bit of Simon Chang’s touch, even if his key demographic is around 25+. One thing is for certain, if MFW keeps up with their ticket strategy, the CIMM’s show will be worth the trip next season.

As I’ve stated before, Montreal designers at MFW do not seem particularly interested in worldwide commercial success, even if they were, it would be difficult for them to come by any means of financial support from local investors. Despite the $2.4 million investment by the Quebec government, this serves only to fuel creativity in the industry, not really helping them succeed financially or expand past Canadian borders. Creativity is not what’s lacking in Montreal designers, the city itself is a bubbling melting pot of the most artistic individuals, but it’s lack of drive  for better business practices in the industry.

Image credits: Kim Payant – lavergnephotographe.com

I am exhausted. I was stuck at the same venue for nearly 11hours. I came home with two goodie bags, one containing a pair of crocs (no, not the ugly crocs thankfully), Eye Candy The Volumes magazine, chips and pamphlets. I missed out on getting an M0851 goodie bag which had small leather items like keychains and a wallet.

I made a couple of new friends, 2 buyers from Massachussetts and another girl from a local independent publication called “La Belle Epoque”. Talking to them certainly helped passed the time, although I wish I had met them earlier during the 3 hour break inbetween the first show and the cocktail hour. I read my book for a solid 2hrs perched on a stool downstairs at the snack bar. Paid $12.50 for a ham sandwich, pasta salad and small chocolate cake.

Befriending these new people was fascinating and exciting. I got to ask questions I’ve always wanted to ask to buyers and the journalist knew all the dirt on the inner workings of what the Chabanel industry is like. Chabanel is the garment district in northern Montreal where buyers can buy directly from the showrooms and don’t have to assist all the fashion show shenanigans in the Old Port. I’ll talk about that tomorrow.

Enough of my social antics. I can’t reveal much about the shows, but I’d have to say for today, Muse by Christian Chenail was the best show. This shocks even myself since I really didn’t care for his last 2 collections at all, but this season he really pushed the envelope and I was amazed that he could produce such a great collection.

The worst show was Envers by Yves Jean Lacasse.

Ok.

What is up with this guy? People are clamoring to see his shows, but his collections are terrible!! He’s like a bad Jean-Paul Gaultier wannabe, at least Gaultier still knows how to make clothes. I think the only notable talent Mr. Lacasse has is creating these nice tailored jackets in embroidered fabric for men. But he does that for EVERY collection. Ugh. Enough. I’m never going to his shows again. I’m not the only one to think so, the expression on people’s faces were priceless. One guy was just squinting his eyes, his jaw dropped open as the male models passed by, trying to figure out what in the world was going on.

Marie Saint Pierre? At first I was impressed with her, but not anymore. It’s always the same thing, you can see it on people’s faces, they start yawning, they get bored. And does she even try to venture out onto different fabrics? I don’t think so.

More juicy gossip.

This morning’s press conference was one hot pressure cooker. I was relieved to know that some local journalists are still journalists at heart. One lady who freelanced for Le Devoir asked that although the industry is full of talented designers, what was the government going to do to help them position them on an international level? Mr. Bachand, minister of Economics of Quebec, mumbled his way through his answer, only reiterating what he had stated earlier in his speech, and flat out didn’t answer the woman’s question. I have never seen a more plastified smile on a person’s face like Mr. Bachand’s before. This isn’t a good sign. It seems to indicate that the govt has absolutely no idea how to spread our designers on an international level business wise. All they believe is that promoting creativity will be enough to propel some 600 yearly new designers on a global scale….right.

Another woman asked that the manufacturing industry is downsizing in Quebec and moving elsewhere to Asia like China and Vietnam, so what would the govt do to bring back those lost jobs? Sensation Mode’s co-president answered that although it was unfortunate that manufacturing jobs are moving elsewhere (because of cheaper labor), they hope that the creativity and design of our fashion designers will make up for the difference. Er….ok. I’m guessing that these manufacturing jobs will be lost for good then. What’s the point of boasting our Canadian manufacturing industry (being third behind NY and LA in North America) when nobody is trying to save it?

Ok what’s wrong with this picture? Is the govt trying to save the fashion industry or not? And I hate how they try to paint Montreal as THE Canadian fashion capital. Wrong. It’s Toronto. Even I know that. People aren’t exactly clamoring to come here are they? It’s even more insulting trying to lump us together with NY, Paris, Milan and London Fashion Week, when we are a bazillion light years behind them on an international scale. We may be fashion forward, but our business models suck globally. Don’t sugar coat the facts!

I’m really starting to become disappointed about the state of our fashion industry. It’s in terrible shape. At least Mr. Bachand had a redeeming phrase towards the end of his speech: “We are still working within a frame of a strategy. A strategy is not written in stone.” So they’re working on it. Let’s hope they get it right before I die!

Be forewarned that fashion shows have a tendency to start late. Show up early at your own risk!

Karv Fashion Show @ Club 1234
March 7th, 2008 at 10PM
Tickets are available (10$) price at the door will be (15$).
For Tickets & Table Reservations Call : 707-3333
Cause: Promotional
Click here for the Facebook Event

CASA Cares Fashion Show @ Olympia Theatre
March 13th, 2008 at 8:30PM
Tickets are $25 and can be purchased at 1500 de Maisonneuve Blvd. W., Room GM 218-4.
Cause: Donation to the Montreal Children’s Hospital Foundation
Designers: Dom Rebel, Aqua di Lara, Bodybag by Judith Desjardins, Dinh Bà and more.

Ethni-cité fashion-show & Party @ Time Supper Club
March 13th, 2008 at 11:30PM
Pre-sale tickets are $15. Price at the door will be $20.
Cause: Promotion of cultural diversity among local and international students
Click here for the Facebook Event

The Official “WALK” Fashion Show @ House Nightclub
March 22nd, 2008 at 8:30PM
Tickets are $40. Groups of 10 or more get a $10 discount per person.
Contact Megan Clark: thats.crazy.babyyy@hotmail.com
Tel: (514) 525-8567
Cause: Donations for the Montreal Children’s Hospital Foundation
Click here for the Facebook Event

Armure Urbaine @ Marche Bonsecours for Montreal Fashion Week
March 27th, 2008 at 9:30PM
Tickets are $30. Can be purchased at Admission.com.
Cause: Donations for YWCA.
Designers: Body Bag by Jude, Dinh Bà, Denis Gagnon, Envers by Yves Jean-Lacasse, Helmer, Collection Iris, Marie Saint Pierre, Muse by Christian Chenail, M Siamo, Mylene B.

Path of Destruction Fashion Show – Location TBD
April 5th, 2008 – Time TBD
Tickets are $25. Price at the door will be $30.
Cause: Promotional, free stuff
Click here for the Facebook Event

OR you can just join the Montreal Fashion Group on Facebook and make your life easier.

And as a final announcement, which isn’t fashion show related, I found out that Marie Saint Pierre will be opening a new boutique at the Rockland Centre soon.