Dear readers,

After much consideration, I have decided to close this blog to move on to other projects.

I no longer have the drive upkeep this blog with more thought provoking posts about the fashion industry, and I think with the overwhelming information on the internet, and the constant struggle to keep things fresh was too much for me.

This has been a great journey and I appreciate everyone who has kept up with the blog thus far.

This blog’s domain will expire in Feb 2012. All related posts will be archived on my computer, but will not be available online any longer.

I want to thank those who have made my experiences fun and have enjoyed making new discoveries in fashion. I will still follow fashion diligently, but I honestly have nothing further to say.

Best wishes to everyone.

Sincerely,

Dahlia

ASOS.com is one of those sites that I really wanted to like. They were like the new kids in town selling fashionable items at some pretty reasonable prices, and I wanted to give them a try.

Disappointments ensued one after the other. I’m not particularly blaming ASOS’ services, they were pretty speedy in their shipping, but a few things have happened since ordering two pairs of boots from them.

The first pair were the Hunter wedged rain boots. Ultra cute and sleek, it was love at first sight. I carefully looked up their UK sizing, and ordered a size 3, which in US sizing equals to 5 (I’m a true size 5/35). But what I didn’t know was that a UK size 3 teeters between a US size 5 and US size 6. So to my surprise, my boots were slightly too big (fixable), but also slightly too high (hitting the knee caps). I wasn’t sure what to do with them at first, but I knew that if I couldn’t walk properly with the boots on, they’re not worth keeping. So, I looked up the return policy and decided to give a go. Getting my money back was a sensible option.

Except Canada Post isn’t so generous. I found out more horrible shipping news: it would cost me $124 to send the Hunter boots back to the UK.

Are you serious?

Apparently a 2kg pair of boots in its original packaging was going to cost me just over a little more than what I had paid for them. Either way you look at it, I was going to lose over $100. Is it any wonder Canadian retailers can’t make any business online? Blame the Canadian postal services!

I decided to keep them and make do. Luckily these soles that I bought give me just enough height for my knee to bend over the boot, so I lucked out.

The second item was a pair of open toed booties signed by ASOS on sale at a decent price of $84. I wanted to put away my prejudice for cheap affordable boots and wanted to believe that not all things cheap were of cheap quality. Upon inspection, there weren’t any crooked stitching, no traces of glue anywhere, no pieces of string or lint hanging out. It looked and felt really good.

I was wrong. And I learned my lesson the hard way. Sure the booties are ultra cute I loved them. I’ve worn them a total of about 5 times until I noticed something odd last night. I was actually able to bend my foot more so than usual until I looked down and saw the sole half hanging from the heel.

I was mortified.

I managed to superglue the thing back on, but my confidence in cheap items were totally shot.

I gave the label a look, but of course, it’s MADE IN VIETNAM.

So far as I know, anything Made in Vietnam is utter crap. That’s why I refuse to buy anything from Mango. I’m Vietnamese, but I’m not afraid to say that Vietnamese made goods are far worse than things made in China. I think ASOS should definitely post where their items are made from so that we know what we’re getting ourselves into. I know Net-a-porter does so, I believe this should be a standard for any clothing business.

I’m so disgusted with myself. But also so incredibly disappointed in ASOS. I really wanted to like them, but my experience with them was by far the worst online shopping I’ve ever done. Can’t return the shoes, and got really crappy quality shoes. Needless to say, I will not be shopping with them anymore.

Let this be a lesson to all, sometimes expensive designer shoes are simply the better way to go. Don’t waste your time and money on companies and products that offered at a “consumer friendly” price range, you really do get what you pay for. I’m going to save my pennies and buy a pair worth purchasing.

I’m not particularly a big jewellery fan, I know very little about fine jewellery and have only poked through the cheap ones at Aldo and Le Chateau. But once in a while, I come across something that I fancy and buy it.

As you know, I have a huge interest in Japanese culture, and I think this is the first time that an anime/manga has actually pushed me to wanting an object so badly, I had to searched the internet for it. After reading several volumes of Nana and watching all 40-something episodes, it has sprung me to do two things:

1) Immediately become an Anna Tsuchiya fan for both actress and singer.
2) Become obsessed with a Vivienne Westwood armor ring featured on one of the main characters.

Armor rings are nothing new, they’re a bit gothic, and they stand out from most normal rings. Well that Vivienne Westwood ring was (almost perfect). It has four plates that can move with your knuckle and has a trademark orb on it, costing a whopping $280 if I bought it online.

The problem is, I have very small and slender fingers and most typical adult rings range from size 5 and up. I wear size 5 on my thumb, so I knew that even if I wanted a ubiquitous Vivi ring, I wouldn’t be able to wear it. Other sites sold “Nana’s armor ring” but looked grotesquely oversized and cheaply done.

But Rakuten to the rescue!

After ordering my used Louis Vuitton bag from Rakuten, I was confident enough that I could probably find something on the site.

And there it was: a store that made similar armor rings but with slight variations. The structure was virtually the same, but without the orb and had several options of either having a skull, a heart or a cross on it. It even gave the option of having a “bald” version, meaning one without decorative trinket on top. Price $100, give or take a few dollars on the exchange rate with the Japanese Yen.

Perfect.

The English site of Rakuten isn’t perfect, but it’s accurate enough to give some idea on the quality, size, and finish of the product. DICE makes silver accessories from scratch, all handmade and had favourable customer reviews. Best of all? This Japanese company also produced smaller sizes! Ring size 3 to 4.5! I was beyond ecstatic. In a few clicks, I put in my order.

And voila. My ring fits beautifully on my ring finger, and I could also interchangeably put it on my index finger without any problems. The quality is remarkably good, unlike my Aldo rings I bought for $20 where the inside is rough and unpolished and starting to show tarnish, my DICE armor ring is slick and shiny on all surfaces. By far, the best ring I’ve ever bought. There is no doubt in my mind that if you look hard enough, you’ll be able to find some pretty good deals on Rakuten.

Despite the passing of Alexander McQueen last year, his protégé, Sarah Burton, has been successfully carrying on his legacy with her second collection for Fall 2011. Ms. Burton does not simply have her own take on the McQueen DNA, some fashion editors proclaim that she IS the McQueen DNA.

While my knowledge of McQueen’s work is limited, if I were to compare past collections from McQueen’s and Ms. Burton’s work, I can tell that there is a liaison, but a direct heir to the man’s work, Ms. Burton is not. In fact I find that McQueen’s aesthetic was far more aggressive in colors and was much more hard edged. He was much more daring I would say.

On the other hand, Ms. Burton offers much softer looks, which I find appeals much to women, it’s a contrast, but a good one. Her Spring 2011 collection was almost fairytale-like, and she continues with this ethereal theme for Fall 2011. The edgy pieces I found were in the lace up over-the-knee boots in shiny patent leather, dabbling into fetishism (seems like a trend for fall, LV and Mugler also had fetish ensembles).

Her main d’oeuvres are without doubt, sharply executed, especially her couture-like pieces towards the end with massive ballgowns and detailed embroidered work.

Bref, it doesn’t matter what people call her, Ms. Burton’s work was for me the most outstanding collection in Paris.

As a fashion blogger, the name Thierry Mugler can only perhaps ignite a vague sense of familiarity: “Oh you mean that Angel fragrance in the blue star bottle?” That’s as close as I’ve ever gotten to know Thierry Mugler. As a person who grew up in the 80s and 90s – during Mugler’s prime, the fashion world back then was truly only for the fashion elite.

In 2011, his brand name, now only known as Mugler, has been propelled into the spotlight in perhaps one of the most anticipated shows in Paris this week, with Nicola Formichetti, Lady Gaga’s stylist, as the new head designer for the brand.

Style.com

Like any curious person, I looked up Thierry Mugler, and believe me, it’s difficult to find information on him. I had to rely on the NY Times to catch up on what had actually happened to Mr. Mugler when he dropped out of the spotlight some time in the early 2000. I then learned that his label had gone under in 2003 and that he has been in a constant battle with his parent company, Clarins, since being acquired in 1997. I had also learned of Mugler’s eccentricities, how he went from lithe ballet dancer to muscular monolith. He was also an avid photographer, artistic director and fragrance creator. He’s still around, but he has purposely distanced himself from the fashion world and interviews, so it’s been difficult to find articles on him.

As for his shows, they were of the theatrical and fantastical kind, and he also did Haute Couture for a time. Thanks to YouTube, I was able to see some familiar faces during his late 90s shows that featured models like Ester Cañadas, Naomi Campbell and Iman. I made comparisons from his previous shows to the one that Formechetti presented yesterday, and could see where the influence has settled into the Fall/Winter 2011 collection.

Style.com

Formichetti’s show was every bit of a Mugler show – fast paced, wild futuristic clothes in latex, transparencies, and mile high shoes, exciting music with a star that powered down the catwalk. Mugler shows are usually hectic, with models coming in pairs or in groups, posing like they were in an editorial photoshoot, growling, slinking, gyrating. Formichetti’s show was all very sexual in a fetish sort of way. And indeed, previous Mugler shows were said to be very popular amongst fetishists due to the clothes, and this new one kept in step with the house’s history.

The clothes though were another story. While there were odd shapes and powerful shoulders with slender waists and lots of latex and transparencies, I felt that the clothes were a smidge too simplistic since Thierry Mugler’s work was usually quite elaborate. Perhaps this is the new formula that’s needed in order to sell, as after all, the goal of all this marketing tactic is to sell the clothes. Indeed, I do believe the clothes will sell. What with social media perpetuating the brand to the world, with a Facebook video, Twitter, and a major celebrity endorsement by Lady Gaga, I’m quite sure the fashion crowd will jump and gobble it up. Formichetti’s work reminds me a lot of Gareth Pugh, so treading into these types of futuristic wear is still a risky move to make. Still, I believe the Mugler brand has been injected at least temporarily with a new energy and excitement over the brand.

John Galliano’s gaffe of making anti-semitic remarks in the La Perle restaurant in Paris has finally resulted in costing him the House of Dior. However, by some accounts, it’s said that the House has been looking to replace him for some time and that a former worker in its Atelier Flou said that he was rarely seen and looked disheveled and disconnected with the workshops.

So, the biggest question looms: who will take the helm at the House of Dior? A prestigious name for a designer who had created the “New Look” with emphasis on new shapes.

As the conversations are flying off on Twitter on speculations of the next Creative Director, a few names have popped up: Jean-Paul Gaultier, Hedi Slimane, and Rodarte.While all are notable designers in their own right, there are several reasons why those particular choices wouldn’t work for Dior.

Jean-Paul Gaultier
Having just left Hermes to concentrate on his own collections, including Haute Couture, J-P probably doesn’t have the time to shoulder more RTWs and Haute Couture collections. Karl Lagerfeld is probably the only man who is doing triple duty in this industry (Chanel, Chanel Haute Couture, Fendi, and Karl Lagerfeld), and it’s safe to assume that J-P isn’t looking to have a House rich in history resting on his shoulders. Besides, J-P’s vision is much too wild for Dior. Galliano was wild, but J-P is even wilder, he’s not nicknamed L’Enfant Terrible for nothing.

Hedi Slimane
Formerly the head designer for Dior Homme, it would be a natural choice for Slimane to take over, but given he has little experience in womenswear and much less in Haute Couture, it would be doubtful he could pull it off. Let’s also remember that he’s left Dior in 2007 by his own will to have more creative control, so a stuffy House of Dior is probably not his cup of tea.

Rodarte
The brand has received much praise since their debut of edgy, almost visceral looks, and it’s grown in the last couple of seasons into more prim designs. Still, RTW is nothing like Haute Couture, the Mulleavy sisters are much too young and free spirited to be confined to Dior’s standards. They need to run free with their designs, they’re a pair that can’t be tamed.

Marc Jacobs
Considering he has revitalized intense interest in Louis Vuitton with his flamboyant designs, he’s a good candidate for Dior, however Marc Jacobs himself has pretty much become the face of Vuitton. Having him switch over to Dior would be a strange move and it would only cause further controversy of who would replace him at LV. I say Marc is out of this one.

Alber Elbaz
As much as I love Elbaz, he should stay at Lanvin. It’s his home. Seriously. Don’t take the man away from a brand he has revitalized with his beautiful designs. Elbaz is Lanvin, point final.

So who would I pick to fill in the shoes at Dior?

Left: Raf Simons for Jil Sander F/W 2011, Phoebe Philo for Celine S/S 2011. Style.com

Ideally? Raf Simons from Jil Sander. But because he’s part of the Prada Group, that may not be possible. He’s repeatedly shown his eye for couture lately, with constant play on shapes and colors while still keeping with minimalistic elements of Jil Sander. I would assume he would apply the same kind of care to Dior and have ample resources to really let his imagination fly at Dior. Let’s not confuse that Simons’ interpretation of Dior will be vastly different from Galliano. The last 15 years are certainly filled with theatrical showmanship with Galliano’s Dior, but what of the essence of Dior? Back when Christian Dior was still alive, he was establishing new silhouettes and having women guffaw over how much fabric he was using to create his dresses during penny-pinching war times. Dior, much like Yves Saint Laurent, was all about the shapes. It would be nice to return to that.

Another rather good pick would be Phoebe Philo from Celine, which belongs to LVMH, and who better than the hottest female designing star to take over the helms at Dior? Perhaps a move away from the flamboyant will be a good change for Dior, and I think Philo would definitely have the chops to live up to expectations.

But, it’s all speculation, for now Paris is swirling in drama right now. Tomorrow is the big Thierry Mugler show with Lady Gaga and Nicola Formichetti as creative director. Times are certainly changing.

I’m not one to really comment on the way celebrities dress for their awards and shindigs, but the Oscars is perhaps the only exception where we expect celebrities to dress their best. Plus, it makes you appreciate some of the designs out there that perhaps you’ve over looked during fashion weeks.

While most women would try to go out in big dresses, I like Michelle Williams winning look – subdued glamour and minimalistic. Her Chanel Haute Couture dress is simply a great elegant choice with her pixie blond haircut. Sure Michelle looks to be as white as her dress, but I think it gives her a bit of an ethereal look. I’m simply love it.

There are a couple of mentions that fall into the lilac and lavender colors, worn seldomly and I think it’s because it’s so rare to see that color in real life that I’m naturally drawn to it. Nicole Kidman once wore a lavender colored YSL dress and was an instant hit on the red carpet. Such is the case this year for Mila Kunis in her lacy Elie Saab Couture, and Cate Blanchett with an interesting Givenchy Couture dress. It’s especially Cate’s dress that intrigues me because it’s so unusual in shape and style. And coincidentally, she too is sporting a pixie blond haircut.

While there’s not much to analyze in celebrity style (they’re heavily influenced by personal stylists and free dresses), I suppose once in a while, we can mindlessly forget and simply enjoy the clothes.

Mila Kunis in Elie Saab Couture

Cate Blanchett in Givenchy Couture

Images credit: JustJared.com

Miuccia Prada has some pretty kooky ideas lately.

First, it was bananas for spring and now fish scales for fall.

Whatever the case, it’s my top pick for Milan Fashion Week, and we haven’t even gone through the entire week yet!

While I haven’t attended most shows up close and personal, I can still enjoy watching the shows from home, whether they’re video playback or still images, it’s always fun to see what’s in store for next season. Now, I’ve specifically written this blog as not to talk about upcoming trends (it’s kind of pointless to point out the obvious) mainly because at the end of the day, trends are irrelevant. What I’m always looking for is consistency, originality, or just plain well-executed familiarity.

Basically – whatever floats your boat.

It’s been only recently that I’ve taken a keen interest in London Fashion Week designers, mainly because London is the incubator of future fashion talents that don’t hog the limelight like they do in New York. After having an epiphany in purchasing a dress by Krystof Strozyna, a Polish designer who is based in London, I’ve come to appreciate that well made clothing doesn’t necessarily have to bear the mark of the giant fashion brands like Gucci or LVMH.

Thus I thought bringing along a few names that most Montrealers haven’t heard of (except for Burberry), and thought I would share them with you.

Antonio Berardi
I’ve first seen his dresses on Net-a-Porter and have been obsessed with them ever since. His beautifully tailored dresses saunter with sexy zest. For fall, he’s made some play on skirt volumes and folds, but I prefer his classic lady-like shape and lacy numbers.

Phoebe English
A graduate from revered Central Saint Martins in London, Ms. English had previously shown quite a hand for knitwear, but this season she’s demonstrated that she can pull off fashion in other ways. With fringe hair and layerings of PVC, her creations clearly stood out from the entire album of CSM on Style.com. It looks like the Phoebes in the fashion world are a force to be reckoned with.

Burberry
This is not a new thing for Burberry’s Christopher Bailey, he continues to display his talents at the old British fashion house by looking back into Burberry’s history, but I found that for Fall, I wouldn’t mind to go for one of his cozy looking knitted wool coats.

Left-Right: Mary Katrantzou and Erdem. Style.com

If I’m looking for color this fall, there were a few designers who completely ignored Fall fashion palettes, Matthew Williamson being one of them, and for fall I was strangely attracted to Erdem and Mary Katranzou’s work.

Mary Katrantzou
I have vaguely heard about her, but I found her collection for fall to be quite stunning and a world apart from what we’re seeing in London. Colorful, sculptural pieces that reminded me of antique vases stemming from different parts of the world was what I thought when I first looked through her collection. It’s very reminiscent of Nicholas Ghesquiere’s work at Balenciaga when he created similarly volumizing shapes that imitated pieces of armor (instead of vases). Nonetheless, I found the collection to be well executed, feminine and if a bit unusual.

Erdem
It looks like Erdem is venturing more and more into digital prints and I’m liking some of the results from those effects. I particularly like this barrage of colors of paintlike strokes and in the image above, a digital layering of shapes and colors in the skirt. It kind of tells me of a more colorful fall season, but still warm enough to nuzzle around in a nice dress.

London really churned out some winning collections, and it’s all the more reason to pay more attention. You could find yourself purchasing one of these dresses for much less than what you would normally pay for designer dresses.

Actually, let’s not. The work speaks for itself.

Perhaps already done and deja vu in the past, but let’s face it – Ralph Lauren still knows how to turn heads.

Speaking of turning heads, have you seen Marchesa?

Above: Marchesa Fall 2011. Style.com

It’s all in the details ladies and gentlemen.