Montreal Fashion Week Impressions

As I perused the photo galleries on Canoe.ca of the latest collections from our Montreal designers, I felt the collections were for the most part under par of what I was expecting. For example, for his Fall 2008 collection, I thought Christian Chenail really outdone himself with the Blade Runner look, the shiny blacks and gunmetal grays and deep purples. But this year, his focus was more on fur with different textures, however there was no consistency in maintaining a certain look, at least I found.
Usually I really love Helmer‘s fantastical creations, but I found this season to be too out there, and I don’t know if I particularly fond of the giant fruits and plastic bags with vegetables…I’m guessing he was trying to send out a message that his collection was perhaps an eco-friendly one. I was also a bit disappointed with his patchwork this time around, didn’t quite wow me enough.
The consistent winner of MFW are the collections by the CIMM (Centre International de Mode de Montreal), which is based at the 555 Chabanel in the garment district. The team of designers include Samuel Dong, Simon Chang, Zenobia Bawa and Frank Lyman, and together they produce what insiders say “commercial fashion.” Ordinarily, one would imagine commercial fashion would perhaps hold no appeal to potential buyers looking for unique, well-crafted pieces. But to be honest with you, CIMM’s commercial fashion was perhaps the most solid and soundest of all at MFW. From a business stand point, this is exactly what will sell in stores. Tailored jackets, trench coats with enough detail to make it unique but without make it look absurd, puffed 3/4 sleeve blouses, scarlet wool A-line coats, and the list goes on. It’s the kind of understated local talent that one rarely sees in Montreal stores. The 555 Chabanel address is rarely open to the public and only comes into the limelight during MFW. It’s a shame that such a well-kept secret purposefully shelters itself from Montreal shoppers. I think shoppers could use a bit of Simon Chang’s touch, even if his key demographic is around 25+. One thing is for certain, if MFW keeps up with their ticket strategy, the CIMM’s show will be worth the trip next season.
As I’ve stated before, Montreal designers at MFW do not seem particularly interested in worldwide commercial success, even if they were, it would be difficult for them to come by any means of financial support from local investors. Despite the $2.4 million investment by the Quebec government, this serves only to fuel creativity in the industry, not really helping them succeed financially or expand past Canadian borders. Creativity is not what’s lacking in Montreal designers, the city itself is a bubbling melting pot of the most artistic individuals, but it’s lack of drive for better business practices in the industry.
Image credits: Kim Payant – lavergnephotographe.com



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