Designer Deja Vu

Peculiar behavior or in need of sales?

This season, we’re seeing a lot of double takes of designers choosing to showcase in both Montreal and Toronto’s fashion week. Designers like Andy-The Anh, Denis Gagnon, Lucian Matis, and Evan Bidell will present their collections for the second time next week at L’Oreal Fashion Week. I’ve also noticed a few designers who have jumped ships and decided to only show in Toronto, namely RUDSAK, Bodybag by Jude and Morales.

Could it be that the American buyers I had talked to last season were right? Designers are traveling to several tradeshows often showing the same collection again and again, in desperate need of buyers. Yet showcasing in a coveted Fashion Week is expensive, let alone two. Given that Denis Gagnon has been plagued with financial troubles in the past, I wonder how he was able to bounce back to two Fashion Weeks this season.

What does that say of the state of the Canadian fashion retail business? Are Canadian cities not doing enough to stimulate local sales? That in turn, it is forcing local designers to seek their fortunes elsewhere?  New York Fashion Week, the circus that is has become, also generated a lot of concern this season by nearly squeezing London Fashion Week out of the calendar next Fall, and the city has become a viable target for talented emerging London designers. It would seem that Montreal, like London, is unable to keep its designers at home as they’re vying for the bigger fashion weeks where they know the media and buyers will be abundant.

There’s also the issue that shoppers may not care much for local brands and will often opt for popular international brands which can be found in places like Holt Renfrew and Ogilvy’s.

Is there pride for Canadian labels? I mean, really?

Where are Canadian statistics when you need them! If there was such pride, shouldn’t sales for local designers be skyrocketing and have high demand for it on an international level? Sorry Canada, we’re just not there yet. Say a site like Net-A-Porter were to carry one of our Canadian labels, how well would it fare?

The fact is, Canada doesn’t have as many venture capitalists or moguls who are willing to invest or buy designer labels like they do south of the border. If Canadian designers cannot be funded with proper investments, there is little chance for them to be able to compete on an international level, no matter how talented they are. If they cannot market themselves properly, labels will never fly.

Returning to designers showcasing twice, I’m not sure if it’s a good or bad thing, if it helps the label to generate more sales, then I encourage it. However, if they showcase in too many tradeshows, buyers can sense desperation, and that could be a turn off.

Image credit: Kim Payant for Canoe