Investigative Fashion Journalism
Posted by Dahlia on July 7, 2008 · 2 Comments
I have been pondering about Investigative Journalism for some time now, especially in the fashion industry in which, well, few journalists have ever gone past the glossy pages or theatrical shows. And when they do, they write a tell all book and still get to keep their day jobs (eventhough they get banned from a few shows in the aftermath). Pioneers like those writers are few and I believe there should be more of them, at least on the Canadian side.
Newspapers should be your #1 source of an investigative piece of any story and category. So I wonder why is that nearly all of the Canadian newspapers lack this investigative approach when it comes to fashion? All of the spreads I see in newspapers are written magazine style: positive, positive, positive. The fashion police and faux-pas don’t count. I’m talking about real pieces with facts, numbers, statistics, interviews, the lot. I don’t see any of this. And if I do, they’re usually tucked away in the business section. This is why I find it so discouraging for any aspiring fashion journalist that their hopes in writing something truly meaningful in a Canadian newspaper won’t happen except on a rare blue moon.
It’s especially difficult when most of the news I get have an American slant on it, thus not entirely affecting the industry in Canada. The Globe and Mail may produce the highest quality in Canadian news writing but, to be frank, their fashion reporting sucks. How many more days, weeks, months, seasons do I have to read upon another review of the must-haves and yet another thorough description of the new summer dress, and how florals are back in style? Who cares? And at first I thought it was cool to get updates on the latest sales going on over at The Gazette, but after a while, I was craving for something more serious and less superfluous.
Since I’ve concluded that if I wanted anything of substance concerning the fashion biz, I’d have to mosey on down to the Business sections. I’m also looking into Canadian business magazines, and trying to find educational fashion magazines (if that’s even possible) like Bespoken which has an interesting bit about sewing terms, and the latest fabrics for custom-made suits for men.
On a side note about getting a better understanding of the textile industry. I got a crash course about wool from a new client I’ll be writing a monthly newsletter for, and it was fantastic to learn about it. Why some wool apparels makes you itch, while others are smooth on your skin. This kind of information is usually only available if you’re some seamstress or fashion designer in training, learning how to work with fabrics, learning about their characteristics, etc. This is also something you won’t find in your run of the mill fashion magazine either.
But finding statistical information on our local industry or articles on such matters is pretty difficult at the moment. For one thing, where does one start? Who do we contact? And are manufacturers willing to divulge where clothes are really made? Some are honest and proud to say that their products are made in Canada, like Second Clothing, other companies can be pretty sneaky.
Since my recent experience at Montreal Fashion week last March, I’m not quite sure if the Quebec government is even ready to tackle the issues of disappearing manufacturing jobs and outsourcing it elsewhere in the world. The fashion industry seems to be such a one way street where people simply accept what’s being fed to them by wooing them with sequins and chiffon dresses.
Thus Investigative Fashion Journalism is a rare category to focus on. When people talk investigative journalism they think about the old scandals like Watergate, Area 51, etc. Also, due to watching too many movies, consequences of investigative journalism can lead to losing your job, your family, your money, and on the very rare occasion - your life. Though last I’ve heard, the fashion journalists that I’ve admired are still very much alive (thankfully). Part of the fun is being your own detective by trying to dig up evidence, to see what the big cover up is about. I mean how many of you were actually aware that illegal immigrants, working long hours in manufacturing jobs, were happy being paid minimum wage in Europe? The point of investigating the industry isn’t to bring down the industry - it’s to stop the corruption. Or at least penalize those who are guilty of corrupting. See how LVMH made an example of eBay with their $60 million lawsuit.
We love scandals admittingly. And what better scandals can you uncover than the fashion industry? I mean I know celebrity gossip is hot right now, but exposing a multi-billion dollar industry gives me a bigger high, but that’s just me. Also, by exposing the corruption, you can change how the industry works (or at least hope) and perhaps enforce better practices for all current and new companies coming into the mix. If you lead by good example others will follow right?
Since this is such a niche subject, I would have liked it if local universities would offer such a program in journalism. I would’ve signed up for it in a heartbeat. Unfortunately, for now, I am resolved to my fashion blog and other small writing ventures in my future.
P.S. I have left Gloss Magazine due to time constraints. They’re still a good choice of a Canadian fashion e-zine, so please keep supporting them. On the bright side, as I’ve mentioned earlier, I’ll be writing a monthly newsletter for a men’s couture store. I find this as a great opportunity to learn more about men’s fashion and it’s so refreshing to see a man’s perspective on things for once. I’ll also be writing for a new Canadian lifestyle magazine called “The Warehouse” writing (not too granola) pieces on fashion.



Completely on the mark about the lack of investigative journalism in the fashion industry, and while that might be a tall order from the fashion press, just a little bit of fashion criticism and actual writing for a change rather than re-hashing press releases might be nice, too!
I totally agree, there needs to be more fashion critics than suck ups if you pardon me saying.